Thu 30 May – Shipwreck Beach

The main reason for us wanting to visit the southern most Ionian island of Zakynthos was to see the infamous Shipwreck Bay. According to Wikipedia:

On 2 October 1980, a freight-liner, the MV Panagiotis, ran aground in the waters around Zakynthos Island on Navagio Beach during stormy weather and bad visibility. It has been rumoured the ship was smuggling contraband such as cigarettes, wine and women [and trying to escape the Greek Army at the time of its demise]. The ship was abandoned and still rests buried in the limestone gravel of the beach that now bears the nickname Shipwreck Bay. 

Wikipedia

We were running a little low on water this morning and heard we could pick some up on the quay so we released ourselves from the buoy, dodged the car ferry (who graciously went back to pick up a latecomer!) and moored along side the stony wall. Tom went in search of Costas who we heard had a water tanker and who’d come and fill us up. Unfortunately for us the driver was on a delivery and quite rightly didn’t fancy a big de-tour back to the bay to replenish our little boat. We’d get some elsewhere.

We cast off lines and started towards Shipwreck Bay, a journey of about 3 hours. The island certainly does live up to its nickname of “the Flower of the Levant”. The western side has huge mountains covered in blankets of green (what look like) evergreen trees, which must be incredibly hardy to cling onto the sides of the steep cliffs.

Having seen magnificent (and very likely photoshopped) pictures of the bay we were preparing ourselves to be a little underwhelmed by the reality, and for the place to be absolutely rammed. We were also expecting not to be able to get onto the beach as we’d been told by locals the night before that it remained closed after the landslide in September 2018 (here’s the video!). As we turned the corner and saw the bay our hopes and anticipation started to build. There were only a handful of boats anchored and we could see a few people on the beach! 

The cliffs which surround bay and lead up to the beach were the tallest and brightest we’ve ever seen. The water was a brilliant shade of turquoise, the beach was white and there sat right in the middle was the ghostly figure of the Panagiotis. We found ourselves a spot (right in the middle!) and dropped anchor. A steady stream of small day tripped boats were coming in and out which was causing quite a swell but thankfully not many were depositing their clients on the beach. 

Getting into the dinghy was interesting with Bini flinging herself about but we were soon rowing towards the beach. The wreck, whilst rusted through in places is still well preserved. The engine is still in tact as is some of the inner woodwork. It also sports a whole heap of initials – what it is with people writing their names on old things? We took a few photos and bounced back to the boat. Time to get the drone out! Tom did a great job of flying it (I was way too nervous on the rocking boat!) and we got some super shots. We had a bite to eat and marvelled a bit longer at the bay.

An hour or so later we upped anchor and motored towards the bay where we wanted to spend the night. Dmitry had suggested we call and ask The Captain whether we could stay on his mooring buoy. We did and were (again!) welcomed with open arms. He came by to make sure we were all safely tied up and asked if we wanted a lift into town. We politely declined as it’d been a busy day and we fancied relaxing on the boat taking in the views, one of which was Poseidon’s Face!